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1998 Ford E350 Headlight Wiring Diagram

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  • #1

When I was at the Ridgecrest race I pulled the headlight switch on and had headlights but no dash or tailights.
Checked the fuses and they were all good.

Figured out if I pulled the headlight knob out like normal and then slowly pushed it back in there was a point where the lights would all work normally. Figured it was a bad switch and replaced it with a Motorcraft switch and it does the same thing.

I have checked all the wires in the plug and the shaft going into the switch looks ok. The lights stay on with the switch in that position,don't blink or go on and off.
This is on my 93 Ford E-350 club wagon

It is real strange since there are no moving parts between the plug and the switch so it seems like it has to be happening in the switch but 2 switches doing the same thing seems like a long shot.

Has anyone ever had this happen and found a fix.

  • #2

Check your hazzard switch on the top of your column. They like to get dirt in them and not allow taillights to work correctly. Cycle it 20-30 times and see if it helps.

Usually it doesn't affect the dash lights but try it anyway.

  • #3

Check your hazzard switch on the top of your column. They like to get dirt in them and not allow taillights to work correctly. Cycle it 20-30 times and see if it helps.

Usually it doesn't affect the dash lights but try it anyway.

Thanks for the idea.
Gave that a shot but no luck.
As strange as the problem is I wouldn't be surprised if something like that fixed it.

  • #4

Is the dimmer working correctly?

  • #5

Yeah , everything works like normal
Just have to pull the light switch out and then push it back in until you get to the spot where all the lights work.
If you go just a hair past that spot you end up in the spot where just the marker lights are on.
Also when you have the engine off and you move the switch in and out you can here it click in the engine compartment when you get to where the lights go on or off.

  • #6

It also causes the rear abs light to start blinking when you pull the headlight switch out and it keeps blinking

  • #7

Check your relays in the engine compartment. Your owners manual will show the function of each, try swapping the headlight relay with another to see if it makes a difference.

As unlikely as it sounds you may have two bad headlight switches.

  • #8

Check your relays in the engine compartment. Your owners manual will show the function of each, try swapping the headlight relay with another to see if it makes a difference.

As unlikely as it sounds you may have two bad headlight switches.

I will give the relays a try.
Sure seems like it would be a switch problem but the odds have to be about the same as getting hit by lightning.
Thanks

  • #9

I had a Jeep once that did that, it turned out to be the switch that controlled the "brights." But it was a Jeep...:D

loufish

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  • #10

What year is the truck?...Many Ford cars have Lighting Modules and the head light doesn't actually control the lights, it simply "requests" the lights to come on...I could be wrong....Give us the year and I'll check it out...

loufish

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  • #11

What year is the truck?...Many Ford cars have Lighting Modules and the head light doesn't actually control the lights, it simply "requests" the lights to come on...I could be wrong....Give us the year and I'll check it out...

Scratch that....2003's still use a headlight switch.....BUT I can get the wiring diagrams if I have the year...

  • #12

What year is the truck?...Many Ford cars have Lighting Modules and the head light doesn't actually control the lights, it simply "requests" the lights to come on...I could be wrong....Give us the year and I'll check it out...

His is a 93 Ford E350 Van, I don't believe it has a BCM.

Now that I see the post about the ABS light it sounds like it may have some damaged wiring or a bad ground somewhere.

  • #13

At the connector check for 2 hot wires with everthing turned off. If only 1 is present your need to run it down to find out why.

  • #14

Thanks for the reply's.
Just got in from work.
I checked the connector and I'm pretty sure there was 2 hot wires but will need to go back and check again to be sure.
The part about a bad ground I could believe since it happened after driving through the desert at Ridgecrest.
I pulled the old switch apart just to see how it work with the slider and rod.
Not really knowing what I'm looking at but I can see when the knob for the lights is pulled all the way out the contacts on the block that slides hits a contact then when pushed into the position where all the lights work it moves back and makes contact on another strip.
Not sure if that could mean a bad ground or short not letting all the contacts in the switch work or causing the feed to jump.

I won't be able to check it again until the weekend but will check for the 2 hot wires again.

Co-Dog

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  • #15

When something electrical doesn't work (your lights), and something else comes on instead (ABS light), the first suspect is a loose ground somewhere.

The fact that you can make it work by messing with the switch, leads me to believe that the loose connection is at, or near the switch. See if you can find the relay that clicks when your lights come on properly.
The problem is probably associated with the control wiring for that relay. There will be 2 wires, one of which, is grounded at/through the switch, or at/near the relay.

loufish

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  • #16

Maybe this can help...

  • 1993 E 350 Headligh Sw.pdf

    57.5 KB · Views: 447

  • #17

Thanks for that.
I won't be able to mess with it for a couple weeks now but I will post if I have any luck.

  • #18

I remember the field fix now. I jumped the switch from the headlamp out pin to the tail/marker in pin. No park lamps alone but good to go. Problem is now a short in the tail lamps will take down the headlamps!!!! Hence why they have different sources.

Co-Dog

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  • #19

Thanks for the diagram, loufish. The resolution is too low for me to make out many of the terminals and fuse numbers, but after looking at the general layout, I'm not as confident that it's a grounding issue.

This is probably a case of high resistance somewhere in the circuit, outside of the switch, possibly a ground at the frame, or it could be an oxidized connection at one of the control related fuses (there appears to be quite a few). Do the fuse blocks in the engine and cab have the original covers? Pull a few fuses and look closely at the stabs of the fuses. There should be shiny surfaces where contact is made. If any look tarnished or corroded, or if its dirty in the block, you may be closing in on the problem.

  • #20

I'm going to look at it more this weekend.
The fuse block has the original cover and when I pulled a fuse it looked like new.

Source: https://www.race-dezert.com/forum/threads/headlight-switch-puzzle-on-ford-e-350.84954/

Posted by: kimberlysiouldaea.blogspot.com

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